Situationist Fall 2025: Soft Power

Donna Karan Geometric Printed Gold Shoulder Hardware Cowl Neck Sleeveless Top

With Georgia in political turmoil and protesters thrown in jail for contesting government corruption, Situationist wanted to declare its resistance on the international stage, and did so through a convincing gender-fluid collection dominated by boldly tailored leather silhouettes. “We protest through our art and this collection is all about survival and resistance, and staying firm,” Davit Giorgadze, the collective label’s cofounder and art and image director, said backstage before the show. It took place inside the new Run showroom, created by WSN with curation by ANDAM to allow emerging brands to mutualize expenses and be able to show in Paris during fashion week. The opening all-black look set the tone, an articulate combination of leather and faux fur pants with a leather polo neck and gloves. There were twisted leather shirtdresses, a range of voluminous outerwear options and statement knit dresses that accentuated the body with rounded forms. “A lot of garments are taken to the extreme, twisted and elongated and more dramatic,” Giorgadze said. “It’s a slightly darker collection.” You May Also Like Layering was key to the edgy silhouettes, with leather sleeves hanging from a bustier, paired with a fitted skirt and worn over pants, for instance. Necklines were high, enhancing the sense of protective strength, although seen from the rear, several seemingly covered-up pieces featured open panels on the back, exposing the skin. In charcoal gray wool, an almost-classic suit featured an innovative double collar, more understated but no less innovative. Bold accessories, many in contrasting hues, completed the look. The brand decided to recruit friends and fellow creatives from Georgia to walk the runway in Paris, and Georgian electro musician Zesknel created a thumping soundtrack for the occasion.

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